The diagram shows the wiring of a typical 1:24 or 1:32 slot car setup. Power for the car's motor is carried by metal strips next to the slot, and is picked up by contacts alongside the guide flag (a swiveling blade) under the front of the slot car. The voltage is varied by a resistor in the hand controller. This is a basic circuit, and optional features such as braking elements or electronic control devices are not shown. Likewise, the car's frame or chassis has been omitted for clarity.
HO slot cars (track on bottom) work on a similar principle, but the current is carried by thin metal rails which project barely above the track surface and are set farther out from the slot. The car's electrical contacts, called "pickup shoes," are generally fixed directly to the chassis, and a round guide pin is often used instead of a swiveling flag.
Today, in all scales, traction magnets are often used to provide downforce to help hold the car to the track at higher speeds, though some enthusiasts believe magnet-free racing provides greater challenge and enjoyment and allows the back of the car to slide or "drift" outward for visual realism.
HO slot cars (track on bottom) work on a similar principle, but the current is carried by thin metal rails which project barely above the track surface and are set farther out from the slot. The car's electrical contacts, called "pickup shoes," are generally fixed directly to the chassis, and a round guide pin is often used instead of a swiveling flag.
Today, in all scales, traction magnets are often used to provide downforce to help hold the car to the track at higher speeds, though some enthusiasts believe magnet-free racing provides greater challenge and enjoyment and allows the back of the car to slide or "drift" outward for visual realism.
(With information fromWikipedia. Image made by David Helber,Wikipedia user D.Helber)
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